Current Works Guide Service
  • (231) 883-8156
  • ted@current-works.com
  • Book a trip
  • Subscribe to Newsletter
  • Home
  • Guide Trips & More
    • Guide Trips & Pricing
    • Casting Lessons
    • Gift Certificates
    • Book a Trip
  • Fishing Report
  • Fish & Seasons
    • Steelhead
    • Trout
    • Smallmouth Bass
    • Salmon
    • Bluegill / Panfish / Bass
    • Golden Bones / Carp
  • Rivers & Hatches
    • Upper Manistee River
    • Lower Manistee River
    • Betsie River
    • Boardman River
    • Hatch Chart
  • Fly Tying
  • Articles
  • Gallery
  • About
    • About Your Guide
    • Testimonials
    • Newsletter
    • Area Information

Posts tagged "pattern"

Flashtail Clouser Minnow

Posted by Ted Kraimer - July 3, 2012
Flashtail Clouser

Flashtail Clouser

Most anglers are familiar with the Clouser Minnow — a highly effective fly created by smallmouth bass angler and guru Bob Clouser. With its lead eyes and streamlined bucktail construction, the fly acts similar to a bucktail jig and can effectively be fished in a variety of colors for a variety of species, making it one of the most versatile patterns for both fresh and saltwater fish.

The Flashtail Clouser was influenced by the original Clouser Minnow pattern and Dan Blanton’s rendition — the Flashtail Deep Minnow. Notable differences in this pattern include a tail of reflective Flashabou, a body of  synthetic dubbing to add some bulk and transparency, and a belly and wing made from soft, natural materials that have more movement in the water. The result is more durable than bucktail.

Flashtail Clouser - Smallmouth

Smallmouth Bass caught on a Flashtail Clouser

You can fish the Flashtail Clouser in both rivers and lakes with both floating lines and sink-tips. I suggest tying these flies using various sized eyes from bead-chain to a few different sizes of painted dumbbell to allow fishing various depths and current flows.

With floating lines, use leaders around 9 feet in length to allow the fly to sink. When stripped, the jig-style hook and a floating line create a fleeing “hop” while moving forward, imitating a spooked and fleeing baitfish — something predatory fish often key-in on.

Fish this pattern with varying speeds and pauses on sink-tip lines when you need to get the fly deeper and/or in swift moving currents.

Flashtail Clouser - Wet

Flashtail Clouser – Wet

Easy to tie, highly effective and very versatile, tie this pattern in sizes that range from a few inches up to 8 inches in length. You can change the color profile to match any particular baitfish that is prevalent to your favorite fishery or even in attractor color schemes.

Trout • Pike • Salmon • Smallmouth Bass •  Bluegill • Largemouth Bass • Walleye • Steelhead

Flashtail Clouser Minnow Recipe

Hook:           U555 Jig 6,  or TFS 5440 1/0 – 6
Thread:         Gray Uni 6/0
Tail:              50/50 mix of Mirage Opal/silver and Flashabou Pearl
Body:            Hareline Polar Dub – White
Eyes:             S.S. Bead Chain or painted dumbbell – sized accordingly
Belly:            Sheep Hair/Sculpin Wool – White
Wing:            Silver Fox Tail


Flashtail Clouser - Step 1Step 1.
After wrapping a base layer of thread from behind the angled hook shank to above
the hook barb, tie eyes using figure-8 wraps, leaving room to tie in the belly and wing.
Some people prefer to add a drop of Zap-A-Gap to the wraps at this point (optional).

Flashtail Clouser - Step 2Step 2.  Tie in the tail material so it extends backwards twice the length of the hook shank.

 

Flashtail Clouser - Step 3Step 3.  Very loosely dub clumps of Polar Dub from the tail tie in area to just
behind the eyes. Pick out with scissor point or bodkin.

Flashtail Clouser - Step 4
Step 4.
Tie in a sparse clump of sheep hair behind the eyes so the tips extend halfway down the tail.
After secure, wind your thread between the eye and hook eye. Pull sheep hair over the eyes and tie down.

 

Flashtail Clouser - Step 5
Step 5.
 On the opposite side of the white belly hair, tie in a clump of Silver Fox tail for
a wing that is slightly longer than the belly.  Trim, tie off and apply two coats of head cement.

Print This Page
blantons flashtail, clouser minnow, fly tying, pattern, recipe, smallmouth bass fly

Borcher’s Drake – Parachute

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 15, 2012
Borchers Drake Fly Pattern - Parachute

Borcher's Drake - Parachute

The Borcher’s Drake represents a number of different flies that hatch in the region, not just one particular mayfly making it not only versitle, but also effective. You will want to tie this pattern in various sizes to imitate many of our early mayfly patterns which include but are not limited to: Hendricksons, Mahoganies, March Browns, Black Quills, Sulphurs & Isonychias. This list of mayflies vary in color however this pattern does a good job of imitating the spinner stage of the aforementioned mayflies which all tend to be dark in color, often a mahogany/rusty color.

The original drake pattern was tied with condor feather and was more of a traditional Cat-Skill style hackle with up-right wings. The recipe and directions for the drake pattern below uses easy to find materials and is tied in a parachute style.

Borchers Drake - Hendrickson

Parachutes are my favorite style of dry flies because they sit low in the water, have an excellent silhouette and provide an easy to see post. I also like how parachutes tend to land properly on the water and are – in my opinion – much easier to tie than the original.

Originally tied by Ernie Borcher of the Grayling area in the mid 1900’s, the drake pattern has been recognized as one of a few that should be in every angler’s fly box when fishing Michigan rivers in May and June. It’s easy to tie, effective to fish and a staple in my fly box. Not into fly tying? The Northern Angler in Traverse City stocks this custom-tied drake pattern in a variety of sizes.

 

Borcher’s Drake Recipe

Hook:              TMC 100 12 – 16
Thread:           Uni-8/0  Camel
Tail:                Moose Body
Body:              Cinnamon Tip Turkey Tail
Rib:                 x-small copper wire
Post:               Hi-Vis or Para-Post
Hackle:           Grizzly
Abdomen:       Brown Dry Fly Dubbing

 

Tying Instructions

Borchers Drake - Step 1Step 1. Wrap thread base from behind eye to above barb.

Borchers Drake - Step 2Step 2. Stack/even 4-5 moose body hairs and tie in so the
pointed ends extend 1 ½ times the length of the hook shank.

Borchers Drake - Step 3Step 3. Tie in rib/copper wire extending backward.

Borchers Drake - Step 4Step 4. Take a clump of turkey tail and remove/pull it from the stem. Tie in by the tips at the rear
of the hook where the rib is tied in. (Approximately ¼ -inch of fibers for a size 12)

Borchers Drake - Step 5Step 5. Tightly wrap the turkey forward slightly building a tapered body that gets thicker as
you approach the eye. Stop wrapping and tie off 1/3rd of the way back from the eye.

Borchers Drake - Step 7Step 6. Wrap the ribbing through the body in the opposite direction that you did the body material for
reinforcement. Then tie in your post material where the body ends. I like to make
a small loop out of the synthetic post material to keep a wing like profile.

Borchers Drake - Step 7Step 7. Tie in a hackle feather along the base and up the post.

Borchers Drake - Step 8Step 8. Dub a thorax that is slightly larger than the body. Most mayfly spinners
have a thin abdomen and a large thorax – keep that in mind when dubbing .

Borchers Drake - Step 9Step 9. Wrap a generous parachute wing with the hackle feather and tie off.

Borchers Drake Fly Pattern - ParachuteStep 10. Whip finish being careful not to trap any of the hackle in the process.

 

Print This Page
Au Sable Drake, Black Quill, borchers drake pattern, how to tie, how to tie a borchers drake, pattern

Tar Baby

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 14, 2012

Tar Baby Fly Pattern

This is my twist/version of the Tar Baby fly pattern which borrows elements from the Mutant Ninja Cicada originated by Emmett Heath – famed guide of the Green River in Utah. Used primarily as a cicada imitation this large terrestrial pattern offers a large profile and bright, kicking rubber legs serving as an attractor when there isn’t much on the water’s surface to bring fish up.

During warm summers in northern Michigan the loud and often obnoxious buzzing sound coming from trees is that of a Cicada. While the insect doesn’t have an abundant population in this region, they are worthy of having in your box as an attractor – if not an imitation of the bug itself.

Tar Baby - Underside

Tar Baby – Underside

Floating high because of its foam body and elk hair wing, this fly works well as a indicator fly where a second fly is tied to the bend of the hook – either a nymph or a smaller, hard to see dry fly like a beetle or Trico. Fish it solo like any large terrestrial like a grasshopper – close to the bank, over deeper runs and all water that appears promising. A little twitch or even some skating/skittering often brings fish’s attention to it.

Consider tying the same fly using different color pieces of foam…. tan, khaki, chartreuse, or olive as it can suggest grasshoppers and play around with different leg colors. Don’t limit yourself to using this fly just for trout – it has taken its fair share of bass, too.

 

Tar Baby Recipe

Hook:           Dry Fly Hook – Size 10 (Gamakatsu S10)
Thread:         Uni 6/0 – Black
Body:           Black Foam – 1/8″
Underbody:    Ice Dub – Peacock
Underwing:    Pearlescent Sheet
Wing:            Elk Body
Legs:            Grizzly Barred Rubber Legs – Med – Red
Indicator:      White Foam – 1/8″

Tying Instructions

Tar Baby - Step 1Step 1. Cut body from foam sheet approximately 1/4-inch wide 1-1/2 inch long and make a tapper on one end.

Tar Baby - Step 2Step 2. Place hook in Vise and wrap base layer from behind eye to above hook barb. This is where
you will tie the foam down with the tapered end extending beyond the hook bend.

Tar Baby - Step 3Step 3. Once tied down, dub the under body to provide some iridescence to the body.

Tar Baby - Step 4Step 4. Tie the foam down again behind the hook eye with the additional foam extending forward.

Tar Baby - Step 5Step 5. Trim the extending foam the length of the hook shank and then cut the corners off.

Tar Baby - Step 6Step 6. Tie in a piece of pearlescent sheet on top of the foam that just extends beyond the body.
Too large of an under wing will tend to twist/helicopter thin tippets when casting.

Tar Baby - Step 7Step 7. Clean and even/stack a sparse amount of elk hair and tie in over the
under body with the tips extending the same length as the under wing.

Tar Baby - Step 8Step 8. Tie the rubber legs in on each side of the body forming the fish loving “X” and trim so the front legs are
shorter than the back legs. If the rear legs foul in the bend of the hook when fishing, trim streamside.

Tar Baby - Step 9Step 9. Use a piece of white foam which should be slightly narrower than the body and tie
above the elk hair to reinforce the elk hair and keep it extending backwards
without excessive flaring. Whip finish and apply two coats of head cement.

To address any potential misunderstandings of the name Tar Baby, Wikipedia defines it as:

“The Tar-Baby is a doll made of tar and turpentine used to entrap Br’er Rabbit in the second of the Uncle Remus stories. The more that Br’er Rabbit fights the Tar-Baby, the more entangled he becomes. In modern usage according to Random House, “tar baby” refers to any “sticky situation” that is only aggravated by additional contact.”

 

Print This Page
attractor, cicada, emmet heath, fly, green river, ninja mutant cicada, pattern, tar baby fly pattern, terrestrial

Swimming Hex

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 13, 2012
Swimming Hex, Ted's - Fly Pattern

Ted’s Swimming Hex

A number of people have inquired about how to tie my Swimming Hex nymph pattern featured in Fly Tyer Magazine- Spring 2010 as a part of “Rainy’s Newest Flies for 2010.” I know what you are thinking – not another hex nymph pattern? Yep, but this one is a little different than the others out there.

Originally I designed this pattern for carp fishing – weighted eyes tied on the topside of the hook keep the point up and sharp, while a rabbit strip tail creates lots of motion when striped or from wave action. Fished slowly with short strips or “bumps” on the retrieve, this nymph fly does a great job of imitating the burrowing mayflies found in the silt of my favorite carp waters. But there are times when a fast-paced strip to emulate a swimming hex drives both carp and smallmouth bass nuts.

I think “swimming” this pattern does a good job of imitating juvenile gobies which are so prevalent in the Great Lakes. Steelhead anglers will find fishing this pattern under a float to be effective since it has lots of motion due to the rabbit strip tail and looks like the hex nymphs/wigglers swimming in the same waters.

I like to tie this pattern in a variety of different weights (Bead-chain eyes and various lead dumb-bell weights) to get down in a variety of depths and conditions – sometimes when fishing to moving or cruising carp and smallmouth bass, you want to fly to get down quick as you try to intercept them. After you tie this fly on be sure to massage some water into it to help sink it; rabbit hair inherently has lots of air trapped within causing it to float or suspend at first.

Not a fly tier? You can buy these from your local fly shop that sells Rainy’s flies.

Swimming Hex Recipe

Hook:           Mustad C49S #6 or TFS 2500
Thread:        Uni 6/0 Camel
Body:           McLean’s tan/brown barred rabbit strip
Thorax:        Wapsi’s Golden Stone Lifecycle dubbing
Eyes:           Bead chain – med or lead dumbbell eyes – extra small, or small
Hackle:         Pheasant Rump Feather
Legs:           Sili-Legs – pumpkin/black
Wing Case:   Peacock Herl
Gills:            Gray fibers from the base of pheasant feather

Tying Instructions

Swimming Hex - Step 1Step 1. Wrap thread base layer and tie in eyes on top of hook using figure-8 wraps.

Swimming Hex - Step 2

 

Step 2. Cut a piece of rabbit strip about three times the length of hook shank. Remove hook
from vise and poke the hook point through it so that the eyes are down and the fur is up.
Tie it down so it’s slightly on the curved part of the shank encouraging an upright position.

Swimming Hex 3 - StepStep 3. Tie in gills – taken from the bottom part of a pheasant rump feather.
Tie them so they flare on both sides of the rabbit strip.

Swimming Hex 4 - StepStep 4. Take a clump of peacock herl and tie in by the tips.

Swimming Hex 5 - StepStep 5. Tie in Pheasant feather by the tip and Dub a thorax that is just thicker than the rabbit strip.

Swimming Hex 6 - StepStep 6. Palmer hackle and tie off behind eyes.

Swimming Hex - Step 7Step 7. Figure-8 some Sili-Legs.

Swimming Hex - Step 8Step 8. Sparsely dub around eyes to cover thread wraps.

Swimming Hex - Step 9Step 9. Pull peacock herl over the back dividing the pheasant fibers
evenly and tie off just behind the hook eye. Whip finish.

 

Print This Page
carp fly, grand traverse bay, mayfly, pattern, rabbit strip hex, rainys flies, teds swimming hex, tying instructions, weighted hex nymph
About Ted Kraimer Fishing Guide

About Your Guide, Ted Kraimer

Guide Trips - Fly Fishing Float Trips

Guide Trips & Pricing

Gift Certificate

Gift Certificates

Lessons - Learn to Fly Cast or Improve

Casting Lessons

Fish & Seasons

Bluegill, Panfish and Bass Fly Fishing on Local Lakes Near Traverse City

Bluegill / Panfish / Bass

King Salmon Fly Fishing - Betsie River Near Traverse City

Salmon

Carp Fishing West Grand Traverse Bay

Golden Bones / Carp

Fly fishing for smallmouth bass Manistee River and Northern Michigan Lakes

Smallmouth Bass

Trout Fishing Manistee River near Traverse City Michigan

Trout

Fall Steelhead Manistee River

Steelhead

Ted Kraimer • Current Works, LLC • PO Box 333 • Traverse City, Michigan 49685 • (231) 883-8156

© 2024 Current Works, LLC — All rights reserved
  • Home
  • Guide Trips & Pricing
  • Fishing Report
  • Fish & Seasons
  • Rivers & Hatches
  • Fly Tying
  • Articles
  • Gallery
  • About
  • Sitemap